I never thought I will complete this trek. It rained heavily the night before and trekking in Uttarakhand rains is no joke though it has its own charm. The trek was a walk through the swampy dense forest and then up the straight mountain at 8000 feet. The expected reward on completing the trek was meeting a Sanyasi who has been living at Shikhar Varnavat since 18 years and surreal view of the mountains.
Uttarkashi, a district town in Uttarakhand has many good treks. Infact you can just climb any mountain or walk the offbeat route and you are bound to explore something fascinating. On a bright Sunday morning I set on my trek to the Shikar Varnavat which is Mahidanda. There are two ways to reach Shikar Varnavat – one the normal path which takes more time and the other through the restricted land of ITBP (Indo-Tibetan Border Police) and is more scenic.
I, the privileged lot (courtesy husband in Army) got permission to trespass through the ITBP land. As it has rained the previous night, the forest area was marshy but beautiful. Small waterfalls and rapids were almost everywhere. The sounds of falling water on stones, cutting through the forest amidst pitch quietness is the genre of music that every Nature lover cherishes. The water was absolutely crystal clear, tress were bright green and wild foliage underneath made the trek an unforgettable experience.
I spotted pines, wild flowers, a local tree whose flowers are good for diabetic patients and even a red mushroom plant. With my umbrella serving as a walking stick, I enthusiastically marched ahead. While others were trying to save themselves from water, I intentionally choose the water path for I love to tread through the fresh flowing cold water. And mind you! It was not all dreamy there is a practical reason to walking in water – it is less slippery than the muddy grass which is also quite deceptive with leeches and flies.
After around an hour of fun walking through the forest, the real trek began. The gentle slope of the mountain, cool water and shade of dense forest; everything vanished. Now it was a steep mountain climb with sporadic trees and pebbles that were precariously rolling down the slippery ground. It was a tricky trek. I took a few sips of water and continued my trek; huffing, puffing, falling and all through trying to save my camera, “jaan jaye to jaye, camera ko kuch na hone paaye”.
After another hour of exhausting uphill trek I could spot a flag. This flag meant that the destination was just around the corner. With renewed energy I took long strides for the excitement was building. I was making a mental note of questions I wanted to ask the sage. The views, will it be worth the trek? I could wait no longer. Walk fast, Gitanjali, the inner voices nudged me.
The moment I walked past the flag, I saw a few stairs and a compound that encompassed a temple, a huge tree and a humble house. I was super excited. I had completed the trek. But wait what about climbing down? It is going to be tougher, remember the slippery, watery ground and crumbling stones. Well, we will think about it later. Now is the time to soak into all this dreamlike beauty.
There was a small Maa Kali temple and we were greeted by Swamiji who came sprightly to receive us. He was delighted to see us and offered a glass of fresh nimbu panni and asked us to sit for a while. After regaining our breath and some energy from Vitamin C, we started to chat.
Shankar Swamy has been here since 18 years. He is a very learned man who is now busy writing his third edition of book on Tibetan Mysteries.
Shikar Varnavat is famous of two reasons, one for the temple of Mata Kunti (mother of the five Pandanvas) who accordingly to the mythological story spent time at this place meditating. Secondly, this place offers the best views of prominent mountains. Sadly, it was a cloudy day and we couldn’t see the peak clearly. However, I was told that on a clear sky day you can see (from left to right) Bhandarpooch, Bhaghirathi Mountain 1 and 2 (I never knew mountains were numerically named until now), Gomukh, Kedar range, Neelkanth range and back of Badri range – all of these mountain peaks in a beautiful half circle. Another interesting thing to see was Mount Mandar, a mountain that stands independent and straight not touching any other mountain (a rare phenomenon) at a height of 11,000 feet.
Swamiji suggested that one should stay here overnight on a full moon night with clear sky to appreciate the real beauty of this place. You can see the snow capped mountains reflecting the moon light creating an out of the world panoramic sight. Surely, a sight to behold! I will come here again, I promised myself.
I saw many red chunnis tied around the temple and inquired about them. Once in a year in the month of April on an auspicious thrithya around 30,000 people trek all the way and come here to offer their prayers. That is the day when Shikar Varnavat is at its lively best with fair and lots of people.
Swamiji also showed us antique coins that he excavated from nearby places while wandering around. These coins were more than 2300 years old.
After some more chit-chat, I excused myself to enjoy the surroundings. The view from this place was splendid. One can sit for hours here doing nothing and still not get bored. From here you can see the complete Uttarkashi town with Bhagirathi River beautifully traversing through.
It was now time to leave. With memories of an adventurous trek, breathtaking sights and meeting with an enthusiastic Swamiji, I was content.
How to Reach?
Reach Rishikesh or Haridwar. Board a bus, hire a car or if you are in your personal vehicle then drive around 150 Kilometers uphill to Uttarkashi city in Uttarakhand. You will take around 4-5 hours to reach Uttarkashi city. From the Uttarkashi market asks for Mahidanda. Once you reach this place start your trek to Shikhar Varnavat. If you wish to trek thorough the ITBP route then call up your fauji friends or relatives to get access J
Though Uttarakhand was devastated by floods last year and roads are a bit difficult to traverse yet the beauty of place is beyond words. Come , enjoy trekking in Uttarakhand and explore the new paths.
My next trekking in Uttarakhand will be Nachiketa Taal in Uttarkashi, a walk through dense forest ending up in a lake with mountains standing tall on all sides. Stay tuned.
Which is the most adventurous trek you did?
My one goal to meet Sankar Swamiji Maharaj. Please help me
I have tried a lot to get the mob- No- of Sri Sankar Maharaj,but no result.Your Article is really a piece of Jem. If you have the Mob- No of Sankar ji please sent through my mail address. May God Bless you.
MAM NAMASKAR, WOULD YOU TELL ME PLEASE HOW I GET SHAMKAR MAHARAJ DARSHAN ? MAM HAVE ANY CONTACT NO. OF MAHARAJ, IF YES PLEASE SEND ME MAM PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE.
Want to go to Sikhardham and meet Sankar Swamiji Maharaj. The phone number which I got will not connect. Then please give me suggestion how I will make the connection with Sankar Swamiji Maharaj.
Hi Gitanjali. Thank you very much for this article which I chanced upon only a few weeks back. This looks like only the 2nd write-up about Shikhar Varnavat and Swami Shankar Maharaj in detail after a Bengali travelogue by Dipankar Roy that I read some time back.
Since then I was searching on the net.
I am a working professional in Mumbai and love to travel to Northern/Himalayan regions of Himachal, Ladakh, Uttarakhand (Kumayun Garhwal). The last trip with a moderate trek I took was in August this year, in Ranikhet – Dunagiri and next time I wish to visit Shikhar Varnavat.
Could you please mail me the contact no. of Swamiji and/or any other person specifically related to travel to Shikhar Varnavat
I want to meet Sankar Swamiji Maharaj. Please give me his address and phone number
Nomoskar madam,ami ekjon housewife. Ami srimat sankar maharaj er anek book’s porechi.ami onar sathe ekbar meet korte chayi.uttarkasi porjonto ami jete parbo,tar porer path ta jodi kindly ektu details e boleden khub upokar hoy..apnar jodi contact number ta send koren tahole ami apnar kache ,chiro kritoggo thakbo.regardes munmnu mukherjee. My contact number9836923595.
Madam, can I get contact no. of Sankar Maharaj? How much time it takes to trek to from uttarkaehi? Perhaps, ponny is available. I am aged so asking.
Recently I came to know that Swami ji has gone on agyat vaas, he is not carrying any phone also with himself. I also wanted to see him but unfortunately it is not possible anyway I am going to VARNAVAT during DURGA POOJA.
Dear Gaurav
Did you visit Varnabart finally?
Where is Maharajji ?
Kindly call me at 9231027490 please
Amio pujor somoy jete chai Varnabat. Apnar contact no. Deben pls .
May I visit the area, get a contact no. Ot Swamiji?
CAN ANY ONE GIVE ME CONTACT NUMBER OF SWAMIJI
Dear Gitanjali
I read your visit to Varanavat and your meeting with Shrimat Shankar Swami . I read his book about Tibet and want to meet him there. I got his contact number from the publisher. But could not able to contact him over phone. It is very difficult to get the connectivity as it is situated in high altitude. So i will be obliged to you if you can help me to get in touch with him.
Regards
Dr. Prativa Sengupta
Chief Psychologist
SEVAC
Hi! Yes, few of my readers have recently visited Varnavat, motivated by my article. Connect with me over mail and I will try to help as much as possible.
Hi Gitanjali. Thank you very much for this article which I chanced upon only a few weeks back. This looks like only the 2nd write-up about Shikhar Varnavat and Swami Shankar Maharaj in detail after a Bengali travelogue by Dipankar Roy that I read some time back.
Since then I was searching on the net.
I am a working professional in Mumbai and love to travel to Northern/Himalayan regions of Himachal, Ladakh, Uttarakhand (Kumayun Garhwal). The last trip with a moderate trek I took was in August this year, in Ranikhet – Dunagiri and next time I wish to visit Shikhar Varnavat.
Could you please mail me the contact no. of Swamiji and/or any other person specifically related to travel to Shikhar Varnavat in the mail ID?
Hi Gitanjali please provide your email I’d
Thank you
Mam, would you please provide me the detailed address with pin code of that mata kunti temple?
Hi Aniket! This temple is in Shikar Varnavat near Uttarkashi. You have to reach Uttarkashi and from there it is jsut a two hour drive to this temple. Uttarkashi is in Uttarakhand. Hope this helps
whats the best season to go there ?
March to June is the best time to go there. Then rains begin and it gets a little tough and uncertain. Again, from October to December early is a good time.
[…] my mind, gave me the strength that I wanted and I began to enjoy being myself. I went on a trip to Uttarkashi to find answers to questions like Who am I? What is the purpose of my life? I was wandering […]
[…] He was a central government employee who had come to Uttarkashi on a project and then never left. He got the call and decided to walk the path of sadhu life. He stays on the top of Shikhar Varnavat (a 8,000 feet mountain), all alone besides a Kunti temple. I was so intrigued by stories that people told about him that I trekked to Shikar Varnavat to meet him and it was an exciting experience. Read all about it here: Trekking in Uttarakhand to Shikar Varnavat. […]
[…] The original post can be found here. […]
Trekking here should be exciting. May be some day I will be there.
Cool, this tempted me to go and visit there, but will have to wait…
Yup. You should come over. Uttarakhand is the dev bhoomi
Amazing place! I love trekking so I should love visiting there… 2500 years old coins sound amazing!
Yes. you should go to Uttarakhand. The state is a paradise for trekkers. Apart from the char dham, Kedarnath, Badrinath, Gangotri and Yamunotri where trekking experience is par excellence. You can explore innumerable places. They also have NIms here. They organize goo treks.
Good description by sankar swamiji.